Materials:

1. Purchased peephole
2. Measuring tape and pencil
3. Power drill
4. 1/8″ bit
5. Spade bit

1. Install the peephole at a height that’s convenient for you but still accessible to kids — 5′ from the ground usually works well. Make a pencil mark at the height in the direct center of your door (measure first to be exact).

2. Put on safety eyewear and then drill the hole for the peephole in two steps. First, drill a pilot hole all the way through the door using a 1/8″ drill bit.

3. To complete the drilling, attach a spade, or “paddle,” bit to an electric drill. Drill only halfway through the door, using the pilot hole to get started. Then shut the door and switch the spade bit to the other side to drill completely through. Make sure the drill is nice and level. Drill only half at a time to avoid having the door splinter.

4. Place the two parts of the peephole mechanism in the hole in the door, making sure that the proper piece is facing out. Thread them together and hand-tighten the connection with one of your arms on each side of the door.

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To complete this task you will need the following items:

1. Wallpaper Scraper
2. Bucket and Sponge
3. Wallpaper Steamer (optional)
4. Filler (if required)
5. Sandpaper (if required)

SAFETY: When working at heights always ensure that the structure is safe and secure. Never stretch out, always get down and re-position the scaffold.

Removing Old Wallpaper - Normal Coverings

First take your wallpaper scorer and go round the entire room gently scoring the old paper ensuring not to damage the plaster beneath. Next go back around the room soaking the paper with warm soapy water (or your wallpaper steamer), start from the bottom of each width of paper and work your way up to the ceiling.

Now go back to the area where you started and re-soak 3 widths of paper, then take you wallpaper scraper and starting at the bottom of the first width scrap the paper ensuring not to damage the plaster, work your way up to the ceiling removing all traces of paper from the wall. Now move onto the next width and repeat the process.

When you have finished the second width re-soak (or steam) the next 3 widths so they will be ready for stripping when you get there. Now work your way around the room re-soaking as necessary removing all traces of paper.

Removing Old Wallpaper - Vinyl Coverings

Some vinyl coverings can be simply peeled off the wall, to do this take your wallpaper scraper and lift one corner of a width and pull firmly, the paper should come away from the wall fairly easily. Once you have peeled all of the vinyl away wash down the wall with a suitable detergent to remove any old adhesive left by the covering.

Other vinyl coverings have a paper backing, to remove these coverings lift one corner and pull the vinyl away from the backing paper, then soak the backing paper and remove as you would normal wallpape.

Light Switches and Electrical Sockets

Isolate the power at the main fuse box and then remove the face plate with the securing screws this will allow you to remove any old paper that is stuck behind the socket/switch. Replace the face plate when finished.

Finishing off

Finally inspect the walls for cracks, holes and any loose plaster. For small cracks use a suitable fine filler, for larger cracks and holes use a stronger more suitable filler (see manufacturer’s instructions). To check for any loose plaster, tap the wall around any suspect areas and remove any loose flaky plaster. When filling try and leave a nice smooth finish, it is better to leave the filled area slightly proud of the surrounding area and then sand down with a fine sandpaper and sanding block until flush.

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A few obstacles you’ll always come across

Doors

You’ll be very lucky if your wallpaper matches up at your doorframes! Most of the time you will have to cut around it and nice and neat too. Here’s how to do it: If you come up to the door, just start hang the wallpaper like you would normally. Gently feel the position of the frame through the paper and mark where the frame has to be cut out from the paper. Start cutting in towards the frame from the paper that covers the doors and which will be discarded. That way you have the least chance of getting it wrong. Get rid of most of the discard paper (so you can work better) and trim the wallpaper neatly around the frame.

Sockets and switches

Always turn the electricity off if you want to work behind the socket or switch. Identify the shape of the socket/switch behind the paper, and cut, starting in the middle, towards the edge of the paper that needs to be removed. Loosen the socket or switch, cut away the excess paper and neatly fold the rest behind the socket/switch.

Light fittings and other circular objects

Again lightly feel the shape of the object through the overhanging paper. Cut from the centre of the circle out to the edge of the shape (so that it will look like a pie-shape) and fold the paper away. Trim away the excess paper.

Top Tips For a Better Finish

• Nothing is more annoying than having to fish your brush out of the bucket and getting paste all over your hands. There are now brushes available that you can hook on the rim of the bucket, leaving you with clean hands.
• Make sure you check your paste when you hang vinyl wallpaper, as vinyl has difficulty sticking to itself.
• To remove air bubbles, it is very important to work quick and neat. Make a small incision in the air bubble when the paper is still wet, apply some paste behind it, and carefully smooth the paper over.
• Always be careful when you use the seam roller. Whereas it might help you smoothing the edges of your wallpaper, it also might smooth your pattern if you’re not careful! It can also leave a sheen on certain paper, so practice on a test bit first, to establish the amount of pressure it allows you to use.
• Don’t get paste on your table! It can be difficult sometimes to get wallpaper paste off the front of your wallpaper, so be careful.
• In order to reduce the amount of off-cuts, it is sometimes better to use two rolls at the same time to align the pattern of your wallpaper.
• It is not advisable to use a roller to apply paste to your wallpaper, unless the paper is really thick. If it’s too thin, your paper will stick and roll around your roller.
• Turn off radiators in the room you want to wallpaper, especially if you have to wallpaper behind them. The heat from the radiator is likely to dry out the paper too quickly, leaving it to come off the wall.

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In this article we will discuss how you can hang wallpaper at your home without the help of a professional.

Tools:

1. paste (use the strongest available recommended on the wallpaper)
2. bucket
3. sharp knife (like a trimming knife)
4. pasting brush
5. dry hanging brush
6. seam roller
7. pasting table (they’re cheaper than you think!)

Planning

As wallpaper will look the best when hung according to the layout of your room, it is important to determine where to start wallpapering before anything else. If you’re going to wallpaper above the fireplace, you must start here. Find the middle of the fireplace and decide whether you want a piece of wallpaper on each side or whether you want this to be the middle of your first piece. If you don’t have a fireplace, or you’re not going to wallpaper it, you should start on the wall with the main window, working away from the window on either side. This will ensure the pattern will be the same either side of the window. Although this might cause an overlap in another area of the room, it will look better around the window. It will also prevent joins showing up more than necessary. As both sides of the wallpapering will have to meet somewhere, make sure it’s in a less conspicuous corner (for example, the corner behind the door). This will give a much better finish than when you start at one end of the window and wallpaper all the way round.

How to get started

Draw a plumbline to ensure the wallpaper will hang straight. You can hang a weight from a piece of string to mark the plumbline. Measure the height of the wall, adding about 100mm. This will help you hang the wallpaper, and after hanging, you can trim the excess paper.

Cut the paper with a sharp knife, for example a trimming knife. Now cut the next piece of wallpaper, making sure the pattern aligns with the pattern on the first piece of wallpaper. Then, after you’ve hung the first piece on the wall, the third piece can be cut, aligning the pattern again with the second piece, etc. This is the best way to prevent any major mistakes in cutting the paper!

Paste the first piece by (on one side) overlapping the edges of the table with the wallpaper. This will prevent paste from getting on your table on this end. Starting at the centre of the paper, work the paste to the overhanging end of the paper. Then move the paper up and hang it slightly over the edge at the other side of the table. Now paste this end of the paper. Carefully fold the pasted end of the paper before moving along and lining up the paper. This will help soak the paste into the paper and prevent any paste from sticking to your carpet! After pasting the other end, fold the end neatly to the already folded part, aligning the edges. Let it soak for a while in order to make the paper easier to work with and it will also ensure a better adhesion to the wall. While this is soaking, you can paste the second piece of wallpaper. Make sure however, that you keep an eye on the soaking times.

To hang your wallpaper, make sure you only unfold the end of your wallpaper that will reach the ceiling. Start hanging it along the plumbline. Make sure you do leave an overhang, so that you can trim along the ceiling later. While you’re hanging the paper, smooth it by using your dry hanging brush. Work towards the edges of the paper. Now you can unfold the bottom end of the paper and press it slightly against the wall, pushing any air bubbles out to the sides. You can now trim the overhang with a trimming knife.

The following pieces can now be lined up to match the pattern. It is best if the paper overruns slightly to the other wall. As the walls hardly ever will join at a straight angle, this will prevent any gaps. You will then have to double-check the next wall by drawing another plumbline. Now continue papering the wall.

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Check out this cool video to learn how you can grow your own bonsai.

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To make sure that your prized roses remain in the best of health, simply follow these tips.

1. Black Spots on Leaves

This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on leaves. They cause the leaves to yellow. Remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays may be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.

2. Stunted or malformed young canes

Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves, stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this fungal disease.

3. Blistered underside of leaves

Known as rust, this disease is characterized by orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. It can survive the winter and will then attack new sprouts in the spring. Collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall. a Benomyl or Funginex spray every 7-10 days may help.

4. Malformed or stunted leaves and flowers

This is caused by spider mites. They are tiny yellow, red or green spiders found on the underside of leaves where they suck juices. The application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.

5. Weak and mottled leaves with tiny white webs under them

This is caused by aphids. They are small soft-bodied insects that usually brown, green or red. Often clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. Malathion or diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.

6. Flowers that don’t open or are deformed when they open.

Thrips could be the reason behind this problem. They are slender, brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings that also suck juices from flower buds. Cut and discard the infested flowers. Orthene and malathion may also treat this problem.

Remember that roses are hungry feeders that require much fertilizer to become healthy bushes.

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